I thought giraffe manor was the coolest place in the world – then I found this place

There is a good chance you have never heard of Saruni Samburu. I wasn’t, at least not until I found myself dropping down a rocky track in my youth in northern Kenya, half-convinced we were lost. The road twisted into the side of the cliff, dust swirling behind us. Our driver was mounted and called it the “Saruni Highway,” Promising the climb was not worth it.

Turns out there’s a lot to be had. My husband and I just came from giraffe manor in Nairobi – a hotel where giraffes poke their heads through your window at breakfast. It’s the kind of place that floods your Instagram feed, everyone can see. I didn’t think anything could top it. After that we came to the edge of the Cliff, the land fell away below us.

Sarruni Samburu introduced himself a little: A handful of villas built on volcanic rock, arranged over 200,000 hectares of unincorporated wilderness in the Kalama Conservancy. Blazing heat, and the sky stretched forever. For the first time on that trip, everything was quiet.

A place to live on the edge of the forest

Saruni Samburu is small – only six villas, each one is carved into the rock as if it grew there by itself. My husband and I stayed in Villa 3, a short, uphill walk from the Main Lodge. “Short” is related when it is already pressing ninety degrees before breakfast, but as soon as we got inside, the heat was not.

Villa opened the valley. There was a separate bedroom, a living and dining area, and a terrace that looked out over the uneducated world. A small fridge held cold drinks, and a jug of filtered water next to the sharp bottles. Cleaning service is included – a small mercy when your desire to bush-fly the pores is 33 pounds per person (and my camera gear weighs 20 pounds!).

The bathroom felt like an outdoor spa with twin sinks, a deep tub, and a shower open to the sky. The water pressure was perfect, and the handmade soap smelled of cedar and herbs. I’m still upset I didn’t buy them at the gift shop.

Between driving

Afternoon in the afternoon. The heat enveloped the resort in the morning, and many visitors went up to the infinity pools. One sits near the main site; The rest goes up, with a view that looks straight into eternity. Monkeys are sometimes full of water, they look at us as if we are something new.

There is a small spa as well. My husband used our complimentary massage while I sat by the pool with a book, too lazy to turn the pages. In Saruni, you don’t make anything feel like part of the rhythm.

At nightfall, the staff put beans on the bar and open air for Stargazing. Benson, the headwaiter and healident stargazer, pointed out the stars with a laser, his voice low and firm. It’s hard to explain how big the sky is from far away from the city lights – as if someone turned the world upside down and let the stars disappear.

Food worth remembering

Food was not something I expected to care about here. It is hours from the nearest food store, but all the food felt thoughtful and fresh. The Lodge leans Italian with handmade pasta, Christmas salads, and warm bread. Lunch and dinner were three courses but never survived. (I still dream about the food from Saruni.)

Every morning, we had coffee and cookies delivered to our door before sunrise. Later, we stopped by the river for breakfast: pancakes, bacon, fruit, yogurt. At one point, we watched elephants graze as we ate. I remember thinking that this was the quiet joy that was felt about us.

One night, the staff surprised us with dinner under the stars. They set a fire and invited a few SAMBURU dancers to sing. The fire was burning, the night was warm, and it felt as if the world was filled with that circle of light.

Guides Bringing the World to Life

Our guide, Simon Lepasiele, grew up in this region. His tracking skills seem impossible. He could see a tiger through the brush while telling stories about his childhood here.

The first afternoon of our stay, we saw the Lionsoss coming out of her lost cubs, her rasping voice following the hills. In our early morning, Simoni suddenly stopped the jeep, pointing at several small prints, none bigger than a house cat. He followed them until he found her and this time with her cubs tied by her side in a thick tree.

It was an emotional moment that made me realize that these guides study the world in ways that we don’t. The joy of the other Saruni directors who broke out on the radio with this news is also something I will never forget. The guides at SAMPBU really care about the land and its animals.

Each Villa also has its own caretaker who handles all food and drink. Ours, one Simon, seemed to appear whenever we needed him – coffee in the morning, cold water in the afternoon, and wine in the sun. His kindness makes living feel lonely, it can be reported.

A different kind of safari

Samru does not compete with the Maasai Mara; It tells a different story. While the animal sightings are not as plentiful as in the Mara, you will have to work a little harder for them. There are also no herds of Safari vehicles full of animals, like in the Mara. This is an area that feels off-limits to most tourists, a truly wild place.

It is home to “five special Samburu” – Animals you will not find far from the south: mature giraffe, Grevy’s zebra, Somali, Somalich, Gerenuk, and Berenuch, Gerenuk, and Berehach, Gerenuk, and BereSA Oryx. We saw them all, and the huge herds of elephants felt like the world itself was moving. Samburu has so many elephants. It’s just amazing.

How We Put It

I planned this trip through Go2Africa, a travel company that comes recommended by other travelers that I trust. Lauren, our consultant, matched us with saruni wodges and made everything seamless.

We visited in February, in the middle of the season. Meanwhile, rates start at around $700 per person per night, including meals, driving, drinks, and transfers. Sundowners – those cocktails you sip while the sun rises behind the hills – come standard, nothing more.

For what it offers, it’s worth every penny.

Which lived with me

On our last morning, I was standing on the terrace watching the bright light over the valley. The wind was still there, except for the frantic sound of birds waking up somewhere below.

Giraffe Manor was unforgettable, but Saruni Samru had left a different mark. SAMBURU IS NOT SUITABLE FOR MEETINGS OR PHOTO-OPS. It’s about space – the kind that stretches your sense of time and leaves you a little quiet inside.

I rarely return to the same place twice. There is so much more of the world left to see. But I was going up that rocky road again without hesitation.

You can see more from our stay at Saruni Samburu in my full YouTube video below.

If you are planning a similar trip, You can read my post on what to wear on safari in Kenya for practical packing tips and outfit ideas. And if you want to know about an unforgettable stay, here is my full story on Saruni Rhino – where we were followed by endangered black rhinos.