When Brandon Slwassk pulled up to WODI Winery with truckloads of freshly picked produce, he thought he was delivering the job of the year. It was the only months spent pruning, watering and praying for good weather.
Instead, he was told to throw it away.
“We had a lot of grapes, well, I would say, truckloads of grapes that were rejected at the winery for low brix,” Swassink, general manager of Manna Ranch in San Joaquin County, recently told CBS Sacrament, [1].
In the world of wine, ‘Brix’ measures sugar content. The higher the value, the richer and more alcoholic the wine. His contract calls for 24 brix. His yield was rated at 23.9, missing the mark. A deficit of 0.1% is enough to wipe out an entire year’s income.
“It’s very painful to watch,” she said. “Farmers get paid once a year, and we didn’t get paid that day.”
25 tons of grapes, worth between $ 10,000 and $ 15,000, were thrown into the field to rot.
The Lodi Winegrape Commission says stories like Swassink’s are becoming more common as California growers face greater quality demands from large wineries that dominate the industry.
“They are being held to very strict standards,” said Stuart Spencer, the commission’s chief executive. “At the same time, these wineries bring in millions of gallons of wine from overseas instead of buying local grapes.”
The combination of strict domestic standards and cheap foreign imports is slowing down small producers like Swassink, who depend on one buyer to make a living.
“They’re all at the mercy of these big companies,” Spencer said. “We have to put some kind of Code of Conduct that makes it an equal partnership because right now, the growers don’t have a choice.”
Farming has not been easy for money, but it is becoming difficult. The USDA estimates that Net farm income will fall by about 23% by 2024 [2]while input costs such as fertilizer (up 37%), seed (18%), and fuel (32%) have increased since 2020 [3]. Unlike most workers, farmers often rely on one annual payment, and if the harvest is rejected there is no second chance until the next season.
Summers with soft, tender grapes are part of a growing challenge: climate change. It’s not just drought or wildfires, even subtle shifts in humidity, sunlight or rain can alter a plant’s chemistry and throw off years of planning.
Many small growers in California only sell to one or two wineries under long-term contracts. That relationship gives strength. Until it doesn’t.
The buyer often decides everything: the harvest window, the delivery schedule, and the quality standards. If the product does not meet those specifications – even a fraction – the farmer can lose the sale and accept the loss.
In theory, forbidden grapes can be sold to juice or vinegar producers, but after driving trucks and processing money, the economics often do not work.
“It hurts. It hurts,” Swassink moaned.
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The lesson here is not just agriculture – it’s financial. Swingk’s experience underscores the importance of diversification, preparation, and climate risk awareness. Lessons that apply to anyone who manages money or investments.
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Do not rely on one source of income. Farmers going to one buyer face the same risk as solicitors or small business owners with one client. Create multiple inbound streams if you can.
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To secure your livelihood. Crop insurance through USDA risk management can help reduce weather loss or a rejected raise. For some workers, that means disability, income, or business insurance, tools that keep them solvent when life turns.
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Investors: Be aware of the weather premium. Anyone who invests in Agribusiness stocks, farm worms, or crop insurance crops, this story is a reminder that climate risk is not about drought or wildfires. Subtle changes in temperature or time of rain can reset the entire industry, and marriages of profit.
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Regional reexposure. As regions like the central California valley face tough weather tolerances, farm investors may need to reevaluate pricing and growth projections. A world that once looked stable can become dangerous as crops struggle to meet benchmark contracts [4].
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Support local warming chains. Consumers can play a role, too. When you pick up a bottle labeled ‘lodi appellation’ or ‘california estate aged,’ you’re subsidizing growers like a swink, and they’re keeping your dollars in American communities.
Despite losing his crop, Swassink says he’s not leaving. He plans to try again next year.
“Lodi has given me so much and I want to be able to go back to Lodi,” he said. “That’s why I want to tell people how great many products have become, grown here, that we can all buy and help support each other.”
In a year when a sugar shortage of 0.1% meant a waste of money, his stories show how weak the balance is made of a good crop – and how small American farmers who live in it should be.
Because in today’s world wine market, one truckload of grapes can be the difference between a good vintage and a devastating loss.
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CBS Sacramento (1); Farm Bureau (2); Usada (3); UC Riverside (4)
This document provides information only and should not be construed as advice. Offered without warranty of any kind.
